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Summer Kings & Steelhead on the Skykomish River

Wed, 07 Jul 2010 17:00:00 -0700

I have given a few seminars at fishing clubs around the region for the past couple months and the requested topic has been fishing summer steelhead and summer kings. In Western Washington we can fish for something every day of the year, although there are opener dates for rivers as well as species of fish.

The Skykomish River opened June 1st this year and was once a legendary destination steelhead fishery in the Pacific Northwest and is often overlooked nowadays. An added bonus is hatchery summer kings.

While we do see wild steelhead and wild kings, the target are hatchery steelhead and hatchery kings. So far this year the Skykomish River has been giving up its bounty and anglers are having good success.

At these seminars I am asked “Is this technique going to work?” Or “I have used this or that and I did not catch anything.”

So rather than give a slurry of techniques which may or may not work, I just explain how I fish for summer steelhead and kings.

What I do is no secret. These techniques have been around for years. What I do, is make sure the clients keep their line wet, pay attention to their rod, maintain the proper boat position and read the water.

The two biggest questions I am asked are, “What equipment do you use?” and “What method do you use to fish steelhead and kings on the Skykomish.” My primary method for summer steelhead and kings is free-drifting. This is not to say I do not use other techniques, which I do. It is just that free-drifting is my primary method for summer steelhead and kings.

For free-drifting, or floating a jig I use G-Loomis 1141S UL rods matched Okuma Epixor spinning reels. It is important the rod and reel are matched. Read the Balanced System article. I use 10 lb mainline, which is Izorline. All of my terminal tackle matches the ultra light setup with size 10 barrel swivel and snap swivels. I also use 8 lb leaders. When I tie my leaders, I always tie 6 foot leaders. I may shorten the leader on the water, but tying 6 foot leaders makes it easy. I use the full 6 foot leaders for water with more visibility. If the water does not have as much visibility I will cut the leader down to 4 or 5 feet.

My leaders are tied with a double hook setup of #4 Vision fine wire hook w/ #10 cheater. In Washington if you are fishing from a boat you can use double hook setups. If you are fishing from the bank, you can only use a single hook setup. (Make sure you read the regulations)

Most importantly is how much weight is used when drift fishing or free-drifting. I use either pencil lead or slinkies for my weight. I used snap swivels, which are put on the mainline, which allows the weight to slide up and down the mainline if necessary. I only use enough weight to tick across the bottom about every 4 – 5 feet of drift. I want my offering on the bottom, but I do not want my weight dragging across the bottom.

With the aid of the kicker motor, I allow the boat to drift with the flow of the river close to parallel to the edge I am fishing. We keep our lines between 30 and 40 degrees upriver, and the boat operator has to maintain the throttle and speed of the boat so the lines drift though the water naturally and evenly.

If I am fishing a plug such as Kwikfish or using bait divers, I use a G-Loomis 981C (8’2”) medium weight rod with a matched Okuma Catalina line counter reel. The mainline is 17 lb Izorline. I still use size 10 – barrel swivel & snap swivels. The leaders are 12 - 15 lb Izorline.

When I am pulling plugs, I will either set the anchor in areas I believe fish will travel or hold fish or I will use the kicker to backtroll and area.

As I stated, my primary method of fishing the summer steelhead and kings is free drifting. My primary bait is cured eggs. I also free drift dyed prawn, EZ Eggs, and Dick Nites.

I do change it up and pull plugs, using Kwikfish / Flatfish (bait wrapped with sardine or herring), Wiggle Warts / Brad’s Wigglers.

When the water gets low I will float very small jigs. Rather than anchor up, I will still free drift the jigs, making sure I cover lots of water.

When you are free drifting, it is important you pay attention to your line. The biggest mistake I see anglers make is not keeping the slack out of their line and rod position. Free drifting requires you pay attention while floating the drift. If you run to the top of a drift and begin fishing, this is not the time to put your rod down and eat.

Pro-Tip: Pick a time you are going to eat. That way everyone takes a break at the same time. Put the boat on the bank or get on the anchor and set out a couple of plugs and have lunch. This also breaks up the day so anglers stay focused and in the action.

When you are free drifting, you need to keep your rod level and pointed at the line. If you have a balanced system and you maintain good rod and line position, you will increase your probability in catching fish.

You can rig everything up right and be focused, but you need to read the water appropriately. In reading water, we eliminate 90% of the less productive water and fish the 10% of the water that hold 90% of the fish.

If you are new to this, reading water is “The ability to look at the water, including the features that area of water displays, and predicting were the fish will be found within this area of water.” Learn how to identify areas that are more likely to hold fish and focus your efforts here, rather than fishing large unproductive areas of river.

Look for seams and edges. Edges can be areas of current break, depth change, structure influence or light contrast (shade). Seams are distinguished areas of current break where the fast water and slower water meet. For seams, fish the inside soft water inside the fast water. For edges, fish the inside of the edge. As an example; if you are fishing shade, work the water just inside the shade first. For drop offs or depth changes, hit the edge of the depth change first.

As with any river, the gauge height and the CFM (Cubic Foot per Minute) changes can also change the features of the river. Fishing the Skykomish River consistently will keep you apprised of the changes. The gauge height could change from 7.0 to 5.5 and it dramatically changes where you fish and how you run the river.

If you talk to anglers who have fished the Skykomish, they may refer to different areas by name. Some of the common names from Sultan down are; White Trash Hole, Taylor Hole, Two-Bit, Elwell, Humpy Rock, Thunderbird, Afternoon Hole, Ben Howard.

Each of these areas have their own features which can also change. Dependant on flow or gauge height, you may fish one side of the river at Two-Bit one week and the other side of the river another.
For boat ramps on the Skykomish you have High Bridge in Gold Bar (Drift Boats Only), Sultan, Ben Howard (Drift Boats Only), and Monroe Lewis Street Bridge.

If you are a bank angler, you need to get out there and drive some roads. Most of the land by the Skykomish is private property. However there are accesses spread throughout. You can start at Reiter Ponds, although this can often be a crowded place. Look at Reese Rd. in Startup to find access. Sultan both north and south side of river and there are various pullouts on Ben Howard Rd. giving you access to the south side of the river.

Hope this information is helpful. Good luck on the water.

Columbia River Salmon & Steelhead Endorsement

Thu, 18 Feb 2010 10:07:00 -0700

WDFW has quite a few new rules coming out for 2010 and 2011. While I will not cover all of them, I will cover those rules which will affect you and your fishing trip with Ridge to River Outdoors.

"In April 2009, the Washington State Legislature passed into law the requirement beginning April 1, 2010, that any person 15 or older wishing to fish for salmon or steelhead on the Columbia River or its tributaries must have a Columbia River Salmon and Steelhead endorsement in addition to their fishing license. The cost of the endorsement is $8.75 (all fees included) and can be purchased at a license dealer or online. The endorsement is good for the license year. Revenue from the endorsement will be dedicated to supporting salmon and steelhead fisheries in those areas."

So if a river dumps into the Columbia River, such as the Cowlitz & Lewis Rivers, you will need the endorsement.

Currently, the WDFW has the endorsement setup to only be sold at dealers who have the computers in store. This sales requirement will affect those of you who purchase one day license from us at the boat ramp. I have written a long letter to WDFW regarding this matter. We are hoping they will be able to setup some type of stamp or something so fishing guides can also sell this endorsement when you purchase a fishing license at the boat ramp.

We will keep you up to date as this progresses.

Are you ready for waterfowl season?

Sun, 04 Oct 2009 07:34:00 -0700

Waterfowl season is just around the corner. It is time to start checking your gear now, rather than waiting the night before you hunt. It is easy for us to prepare for big game hunting, as it usually requires several or more days in the field. We often take our waterfowl hunting for granted because we can go waterfowl hunting on short notice and often close to home. I have seen many hunters hit the duck blind, having forgotten a piece of equipment, or their equipment in disrepair.

So what do we need to do to prepare for the waterfowl season? Well let’s think back to last season. What did you tell yourself you would do different next season? Maybe you thought it would be good to make a jerk string for a set of decoys, or maybe you wanted to lengthen your decoy cords. Well now is the time to do that.

When I go through my pre-season check I always start with my shotguns and personal equipment. Then move on with the decoys and blinds. Let’s start with the shotgun. I know hunters who failed to clean their shotgun after the last trip of the previous season, only to pull out the gun ten months later to find surface rust. Hopefully you are hitting the trap range this late summer and early fall, but if you don’t take down your gun, removing the choke and ensure it is clean, lubricated and proper working order. If you use a sling, make sure you inspect it for rotting threads, mold and dirt. Slings should be clean, and anchor points should be lubricated.

Now is the time to check last year’s ammunition and order new ammunition. I have hunted with people who showed up for a hunt with ammunition, which had rust around the brass head. Do not take a chance using ammunition in this condition. I would also suggest you order your ammunition for the entire season now. You may have already experienced difficulty in finding ammunition for other guns. When the season gets rolling you may find it difficult to find ammunition, so early orders will ensure you have ammunition for the entire season. Often when you order ammunition by the case, you will save money over single box prices.

Next to the shotgun, I think the personal gear is the most important items to prepare for the upcoming season. You need to be comfortable when hunting. If you are wet and cold you will not enjoy yourself as much. Check your waders. If you had a leak in the waders last season, maybe it is time to get a new pair. At the very least fix the leak. Wash your jackets, hats, face masks, and other clothing items. Scent is not an issue when duck hunting, but you do not want to get dressed only to find your jacket smells like mildew. Stinky clothing can be quite distracting while you are hunting.

One of the most annoying things I experience is hunters showing up to the blind with a bad duck call. Make sure your duck calls are in working order. The only way to do this is to practice. Duck hunting legend, Buck Gardner likes to call it the “10,000 quack tune-up.” I think this pre season tune up is important. Getting the duck calls out now and practicing will ensure the call is in tune and you get into your rhythm more quickly when you hit the duck blind. Many duck call manufacturers will re-tune your duck call for free. Just pay for the postage and you will have a call tuned the way it is supposed to be. Don’t forget to keep your duck calls clean during the season. I like to use distilled water to clean my duck calls. Remove the barrel from the insert and clean out any debris. Wash the call thoroughly and let it sit out overnight and dry.

Next you should check your decoys. You should take a good look at your decoys, checking them for faded or chipped paint. If you need to add some paint to liven them up, now is the time. Maybe it is time for new decoys altogether. An important aspect of the decoy is the decoy cord. Make sure you have decoy cords long enough for the area you hunt. You do not want your decoys floating away, just after you set up in the blind. It is not uncommon to do a quick fix on a decoy cord in the field and not replace or repair it properly later. If you don’t fix these cords properly, when the new season gets rolling you have a problematic decoy cord.

I use Greeenhead Gear Keel Grabber weights, and ACE anchors. Sometimes the stretch cords become weathered. Replace these weathered stretch cords, so they d o not break in the field. Check your crimps, or knots and make sure they will hold for the season. If you use the Greenhead Gear quick fix decoy cord, make sure it is not weathered. If you use gang rigs for decoys, make sure the quick clips are clean and serviceable.

For those of you who use a wind powered Wind-Duk, these have ball bearings which allow them to spin freely. These ball bearings have to be oiled before the season and a few times during the season.

If you hunt out of a fixed blind, make sure your blind bag is cleaned out from the previous season and re-stocked for the upcoming season. If you hunt out of a boat, now is the time to clean it out from top to bottom, restock it and touch up on the camo paint. Oil hinges, check your bilge pump, check your battery(s) water level, check you anchor lines and make sure your safety equipment is in good working condition. Have you checked your flares? Flares have an expiration date and should be replaced when out of date. Make sure you have at least on PFD per person. You must also have at least one type IV throwable PFD for any boat 16 feet or longer. Make sure your PFD’s are clean and usable. It is easy for PFD’s to sit in the duck boat and mildew and rot. If the stitching rots, the PFD will not be reliable.

I would like to emphasis the importance of having a good first aid kit. Aside from the standard items in a first aid kit, I like to add extra 4x4 gauze pads, and several rolls of cohesive bandages. I also carry at least one blood clot product, in case of a severe bleeding injury. If you use dogs for waterfowl hunting you should also have a good first aid kit for dogs. This kit should also have extra 4x4 gauze pads and a couple of cohesive bandages. I also include a full bottle of saline solution to get foreign objects out of their eyes.

Check your camouflage. The biggest problem I see with duck blinds is the lack of concealment. Whether it is raffia grass or netting, most blinds I see could use more. Do you need to add some grass or camo to your blind? A blind should actually blind your movement from the ducks. Duck hunters have a tendency to look at the blind from the ground level. Ducks fly overhead and look down at our decoy spread. So look at your blind from the top to make sure you have grassed it well. If you hunt from a permanent blind, make repairs now. Check for rotting boards, exposed nails or screws, and re-grass it if necessary.

If you use a portable blind, set it up and make sure it is not mildewing. If it has swing doors, make sure they do not squeak when you open them. Look the whole blind over and make sure it is ready to hunt. If you hunt out of a boat, set up your boat blind and inspect it carefully. Do you need to add more grass, camo netting, or natural vegetation? One of the most crucial aspects of camouflaging your blind is the color differences in the blind. If you hunt in the middle of a barley field, then you can have a more even camo color. But if your blind is next to a bramble patch or your boat is next to the bank on a river, your camo should have color changes, to blend better with the natural vegetation. If you are using a light color raffia grass on your blind, but you are sitting next to dark vegetation, your blind will stand out. Mix it up.

Hopefully these tips will get you thinking about your gear for the upcoming season and allow you enough time to prepare opening day.

Douglas Saint-Denis
Ridge to River Outdoors , LLC

Dick Nite Now for Fall Salmon

Sat, 01 Aug 2009 09:10:00 -0700

We are just a few weeks away from Pink Salmon stuffing our river systems, not to mention the Coho will be right behind the Pinks. Maybe you are preparing your gear now, or maybe you are thinking about what lures you should buy to put these fish in your cooler.

There are many techniques and lures used for catching fall salmon, but if you want consistency, you need to seriously consider using Dick Nite spoons. Dick Nite Spoons are one of the most versatile lures on the market today. Techniques to fish them are numerous and they are good lures for several species of fish. Dick Nite Spoons are a “go to” lure in my boat when I am fishing clients for Pink and Coho Salmon. I know if fish are in the river, I can put them in the boat with the Dick Nite lure.

For drift fishing a light action spinning rod such as the G-Loomis 1141S is the best possible choice, matched with a quality spinning reel.
You can setup the Dick Nite a few ways. You can use a fixed dropper, you can use a sliding dropper, or you can use pencil lead or slinky, just as you would when drifting eggs. This can be used in drifts where the water is not as deep and fast.

I prefer the sliding dropper because the sliding action of the snap swivel reduces line twists. It is important to let the current speed and depth dictate how much weight you use. Weight used will range from 1/2 oz. - 2 oz. Leaders should be matched to the mainline. For instance, if you are using 10lb mainline, use 8lb leaders. If you use 12lb mainline, use 10lb leaders. Your leader length will vary dependant on the visibility of the water. Typically, I use 5 – 6 foot leaders.

You can plunk the Dick Nite off the back of your boat or off the bank. Use a 5 – 7 foot leader for the lure. Instead of attaching your weight directly to the snap swivel on the mainline, used a dropper. That is a length of fishing line, 2 – 3 feet long. Attach your weight to this dropper. When I am plunking, I want the lure to stay in place so I use more weight. Usually I use 2 – 3 ounces of weight. You can use pyramid or cannonball weights, depending on whether you are bank fishing or in a boat. I use cannonball weights in the boat, to avoid having a weight with edges striking the boat or a person.

If you are plunking from a boat, your lure will not be as far away from the boat as you may think. I keep the mainline at a 45 degree angle from the surface of the water. This keeps the angle of separation from the lure and the dropper correct and in the strike zone. Remember, you need to have some flow of the river to plunk. If you are in a pocket of dead water, the lure will not have the wobbling action necessary to trigger a strike.
You can drift fish the Dick Nite as well, as I usually do. The spoon should have a wobbling action as it slowly moves across the bottom. In areas with more current, reeling very slowly or not at all will be best. In areas where there is no current you may have to reel a little faster to achieve the action of the lure.

If I am drift fishing and need to use more weight than a slinky or pencil lead, I use cannonball weights. I use 1/2 oz – 2 oz of weight. When I go to the cannonball weights I use a dropper to attach the weight, just like you do when you are plunking. However, these droppers for drift fishing are much shorter. These droppers are usually 7 – 10 inches long.

Colors and sizes abound with Dick Nite Spoons. Dick Nite now has lures available with UV coating as well. I use the #1 Dick Nite more than any other size. Another great thing about Dick Nite Spoons is you can find them practically anywhere that sells anything related to fishing.

Pick up some Dick Nite Spoons and stuff your cooler with some fresh salmon this year!

What’s Happening

Sat, 04 Jul 2009 08:21:00 -0700

We have a few things going on in the North Puget Sound waters. First of all we are still pulling in both keeper and oversize sturgeon. To top it off, anglers who fish with us on days crabbing is open are able to drop some crab pots while we are fishing. Since we fish certain conditions, good fishing days are limited for the remainder of July.

WDFW closed retention of King Salmon on the Skykomish River. The return to the hatchery has been too low. There is a possibility WDFW will reopen the retention of Kings if the return improves. We can still fish the Skykomish River for Summer Steelhead. If a King is caught, it has to be released. Overall the Skykomish River has been up and down as far as fish numbers. The Skagit River is still open above the SR530 bridge. Fishing has been a little slow up there.

The lower Skagit River is opening July 9th for King Salmon. You have probably heard this fishery has not been open in more than 17 years. These fish are big and hard fighting. This is definitely a chance to catch a trophy King Salmon. A week ago I spent the day looking at the river. We have found some good areas to target these King Salmon.

This lower Skagit River fishery has been anticipated for years. It is only open for 30 days. I have been flooded with calls and only have about 4 or 5 more days open for booking.

This is also a Pink Salmon year. With an estimated 5 million Pink Salmon returning to the Puget Sound, it should be a good one! Pre-planning your Pink Salmon trip will be important. Every year I get calls for last minute bookings and we just do not have space. So do not wait until the week you want to fish. Start looking at your calendar now and give us a call.

Rod Tip Damage - Pro Tip

Mon, 25 May 2009 09:59:00 -0700

We have all reeled in our gear and over-reeled our swivel into the first eye on the rod. For some unfortunate anglers this first eye on the rod has been damaged, or at the very least you are now trying to dislodge your snap or barrel swivel from the first eye.

Here is a technique many professional fishing guides use to keep the first eye on the rod from being damaged by over reeling. Use beads to protect the first eye on your rod from the terminal tackle. The bead strikes the eye in a manner that is so much less destructive.

Beads are sold at most all places fishing tackle is sold. Depending on the size of your fishing rod you might use beads ranging in size from 4mm to 6mm. As an example, I use 5mm beads for my G-Loomis GL3 1141s rods. Buy a selection of beads in different colors. The different color helps you select the right size quickly when on the water and re-tying your setup.

Good luck fishing!

The Balanced System - Part 2 “The Tackle”

Wed, 13 May 2009 09:37:00 -0700

In part 2 we will cover balancing the terminal tackle, hooks, lures, and bait you use for your balanced rod and reel. This is not a “what product” you should use or even a “how to” segment. It is directly based on the size of tackle you use in relation to your balanced rod and reel.

Terminal Tackle
When you fish the river, at times you hang up and pull in someone’s lost gear. I am usually surprised to see what I pull from the river. I see terminal tackle, such as hooks, snap swivels, barrel swivels and lures of all different sizes. Usually it is oversized.

Losing tackle is a fact of fishing. However, using the right size terminal tackle with a properly matched rod, reel, and mainline will reduce lost gear and you will enjoy your time on the water more and actually increase your odds to catch more fish.

Based on the weight difference of your mainline and leader, if you use a barrel swivel that is too big, you can get hinging and wrapping as you fish. Hinging is where your leader hinges back toward the mainline as you cast. Wrapping is where the leader now wraps itself around the mainline, keeping your bait or lure from working right.

The leader you use is a different weight line than that of the mainline because if you do snag up, you want to break off the leader and not lose your whole setup. The leader should be an extension of the mainline. So the barrel swivel should not hinder the change in weight of the leader from the mainline. It should allow it to flow, just as if the mainline reduce itself from one weight to the next without the barrel swivel. This is how leaders are made for fly anglers. The leaders are heavier in the butt, like the mainline and reduce to a lighter weight line at the tip for the fly.

Let’s talk about barrel swivels and snap swivels for a moment. Barrel swivels and snap swivels have a much higher breaking strength than you think. The size of your mainline does have some bearing on the size of swivels you will use, but for the most part, you can use much smaller swivels than you think. Let me give you an example.

I use Vision hooks and swivels, so I have some data on the Vision swivels. All barrel and snap swivels have breaking strengths.

Vision Data
Roller Barrel Swivels
#4 RBS 117 lbs
#7 RBS 80 lbs
#10 RBS 48 lbs
#12 RBS 40 lbs

Roller Interlock Snap Swivel #10 30 lbs
Roller Snap Swivel #10 20 lbs

Now keep in mind this data is based on a constant strain of a certain amount of weight until it breaks. This does not mean that if you are using a #10 roller barrel swivel you will lose a fish that weighs over 48lbs. You have to keep in mind your rod and reel and terminal tackle are functioning as a dynamic system, not static. Because the rod flexes and the drag is set to allow the fish to take line if necessary and the fish moves through the water, you can handle those big fish.

As an example, if you are fishing a drift setup and use a snap swivel on the mainline to attach your lead or slinky and a barrel swivel at the tag end of the mainline to attach a leader, they should match. So if you are using a #10 snap swivel for your weight, then use a #10 barrel swivel for the tag end and leader. If you are only using a barrel swivel, then you are always safer to go smaller than larger.

Weights
The amount of weight you use for your setup, regardless if you are plunking, back-bouncing, drift fishing, or side drifting is important. Do not use too much. You will always be fine if you start light and go up in weight. If you put too much weight on to begin with and you snag up and break off on your first cast you just wasted time in re-tying your setup, not to mention you did not finish the drift.

The water speed and depth in addition to the type of lure or bait you are fishing is a good indication of how much weight you should use.

If I am drift fishing or even side drifting, I like to use just enough weight to keep it on the bottom. I like to feel a light ticking of the weight across the bottom. Sometimes I will change the weight from one drift to the next drift on the same river. One drift might have more flow than the previous drift, or it may be deeper water. In any case if I am not getting that light ticking across the bottom, I will change out the weight.

Likewise, for plunking or back-bouncing I use just enough weight to hold the weight to the bottom of the river so my bait or lure can action the way it needs to. It is really easy to use more weight than necessary.

Hook Size
Lures usually come with the correct size hook. However, you may have to switch out a treble hook for a single hook to meet the regulations in your state or a particular body of water. Make sure you use the right size hook when doing this.

Hook size for fishing bait is just as important as the rest of the terminal tackle. Just as with barrel swivels and snap swivels, hooks have a greater breaking strength than you might think. Most anglers use hooks that are too big. Let’s say you are drift fishing, it does not work if you use a #10 corkie or cheater with a 1/0 hook. You are defeating the primary purpose of using a cheater or corkie. The cheater or corkie has two purposes. First and foremost, it should provide some buoyancy to keep your bait off the bottom of the river. Secondly is the attraction aspect based on color or style? The weight of a 1/0 hook is too much for a #10 corkie or cheater. Not to mention you put it in the river where you have flow, you will just be dragging the bottom.

To help with hook size choice, consider these things; where are you fishing? What species are you fishing for? Do you have the right size line, and terminal tackle to handle the hook you want to use?

Do a test yourself. Tie up several leaders with hooks of different sizes, including corkies or cheaters. Three foot leaders will be long enough for this test. After you tie your leader with your hook and cheater or corkie, tie a weight to the other end. Now use a hot tub, bathtub, or something you can drop the leader into and see what kind of buoyancy you get with various size hooks and various size cheaters. If you use yarn for your drift setup try that too. After you find the right combination, put on some eggs or sand-shrimp or whatever you might use for bait when you fish. What does it do now?

The key is to allow the bait to float freely and naturally, or in the case of a lure, to action the way it is intended to. If you change out a hook on a lure and you use something too big, it may not work the way it was designed.

Commonly my leaders are 5 to 6 feet in length in 8lb test. I use both single hook leaders and double hook leaders. I use a #4 Vision fine wire hook with a #10 cheater or corkie. I use this leader setup for fishing Steelhead to Chinook salmon and everything in between. I have very rarely had a hook straighten.

When fishing from a boat you can use lighter leaders and smaller hooks because you can move the boat with the fish. Being able to move the boat through the river to land the fish allows the fish to leave the holding water as you play them out. I have and I do fish from the bank. I do increase weight and size of my mainline, leaders and hooks. I usually stay with the #10 swivels, but I might go up to a 10 or 12 lb leader and my mainline might be 12 or 15 lbs. This depends on where I am fishing. If I am fishing areas that limit my ability to move down the bank or river with the fish as I fight it, then I will go a little heavier. I want to have more control over the fish, keeping it from running too far out of the hole. In this case, I might fish a #1 or #2 hook.

Lures
There is a wide variety and various types of lures to use for fishing Steelhead to Salmon. For each type you have many different colors to choose from. The key here is not what lure you are fishing, but are you fishing the lure the way it was designed? Are you using the correct weight lure for the rod? As it was stated in part 1 of this article, the rod is labeled telling you what weights the rod can handle. If the lure is too heavy for the rod, will you be fishing efficiently? If the lure is too light, you will have difficulty casting it.

Is the lure appropriate for the species you are fishing? Look around. What are other people fishing? Trying something new is good. But it is important to recognize when it is not effective and all you are doing is spending time working on your cast?

Lures are not limited to those which are manufactured metals and plastics. You can also use corkies and yarn, jigs, rags and more. These are all lures which will produce for you if fished properly.

If you are fishing a corkie and yarn setup, how much yarn is enough? I have seen anglers with a length of yarn past the hook bend, and quite honestly, this is too much. I never allow my yarn to extend more than halfway down the hook shank, measured from the eye to the hook bend. Often, I use even a shorter length of yarn.

Jigs are also a wonderful way to fish rivers! I really like using jigs to fish for steelhead and salmon. Too often I see anglers using jigs that are just too big. Of course color and selection abound when purchasing jigs. Buy a selection of colors, styles, and most importantly sizes. Start with 1/8 ounce and work up.

A popular and effective way to fish jigs is to float them. Floats are sized dependant on how much weight you will have under them. The size of jig you float will again depend on flow, visibility and depth. Start lighter and work up in weight. Make sure you match the jig to the right size float so it floats the drift properly.

Bait
Bait is a popular angling method in the Northwest for fishing rivers for steelhead and salmon. Cured eggs & shrimp (prawn) have been top producers for many years.
When fishing eggs, don’t over do it on the size of egg cluster you use. As with everything else, it is best to start smaller and increase size if necessary.

Cured shrimp and live sand shrimp can really put the fish on for you. Again, size is important. I like to keep my cured shrimp in the same size range I use for eggs. Live Sand shrimp comes in various sizes when available. I like to start small and increase the size if necessary.

If you have done a little research on using or curing bait, you have found many methods, theories and products. Start simple with your bait cures and build from that.

Now go get on the water!

Tangled Lines - Pro Tip

Fri, 08 May 2009 08:38:00 -0700

Do you fish from a boat and tangle up your line with that of your fishing partners? Have you wondered how fishing guides on the river can fish so many guys without having a tangled mess on every drift?

Well here is the key. Use rods and reels that are all the same. This includes using the same weight line, leaders, swivels, and weight. If you decide that the weight you are using on a particular drift is not enough and you decide to use a heavier weight, then everyone in the boat needs to change.

Having the same setup keeps all of the lines moving through the water at the same rate, preventing tangled lines with anglers in your own boat.

If you think about it, anglers who have their own boat also have several rods and reels. So when you buy your rods and reels, instead of buying different weight rods, buy 3 or 4 of the same weight and length.

As an example, I run 6 spinning rods and 6 baitcasters. All of the spinning rods are the same and setup the same. If someone breaks off and I hand them another rod it feels the same as the one they were using. Since I usually use the baitcasters for pulling plugs, I have a couple of rods longer in length to allow for the offset of the rods. But I still use the same weight line on these longer rods.

The Balanced System - Part 1 “The Gear”

Sun, 19 Apr 2009 09:39:00 -0700

This is a two part blog article for the Balanced System, a popular subject I cover for seminars. Balancing your rod, reel, line and leaders is important to more successful fishing.

In part 1, we will cover the rod, reel, mainline and leaders. In part 2 we will cover balancing the terminal tackle, hooks, lures, and bait you use for your balanced system.

Rods
Selecting rods and reels can sometimes be complicated by selection, quality, and technology, among other things. The purpose of this article is to balance the system you fish, so we will not get too into the choices made for rods and reels, but rather the importance of matching your gear.

Fishing can be expensive or inexpensive. It can be fun or it can be frustrating. You can catch fish or not catch anything at all. To help reduce your cost and improve your chances of success, we have some tips for your basic equipment.

One of the most common mistakes I see on the water is mismatched rods and reels. Buying a package rod and reel is easy to do. But many anglers choose a rod and then choose a reel. This is most likely due to the confidence they will have with a particular brand of rod or reel. Nonetheless, mismatching rods and reels is a common error with anglers.

Commonly, anglers use the wrong size rod and reel for the type of angling, fish species, or conditions. I have seen anglers using heavy halibut or tuna rods to fish for Silver (Coho) Salmon. While the rod will certainly bring the fish in to the boat or the bank, it is just too heavy to enjoy the fight of the fish on the line. Even more importantly, the heavier rods, reels, and fishing lines do not allow for the sensitivity needed for light bites. Sometimes these fish will pick up your bait and you would not feel it with these heavy systems.

A balanced system begins with the fishing rod. Fishing rods are labeled telling you what line weight is recommended, what the action of the rod is and what the weight allowances are for the rod to perform as designed.

Since the rod is the foundation for your system, select the rod first. Among other things, this choice is based on the type of fishing you are doing, the action of the rod, and sensitivity. Let me give you some examples using G-Loomis rods as a reference, since I use G-Loomis rods for guiding. Also, G-Loomis rods are sold in many places, so you can look at one and understand what I am talking about.

If I am drifting bait, corkies and yarn, and floating jigs, I use a GL3 1141S (spinning rod) for fishing salmon and steelhead. I have even used this same rod for casting small crankbaits, such as Wiggle Warts and Fatfish.

This rod is 9'6" long and rated for 4 – 8 lb. line. It is designed to handle lure weights of 1/16 - 3/8 ounces. It has a slow action and is considered an ultra-light rod.

Now many of you might think this rod is too light to fish for 10 – 30 lb salmon and tough fighting steelhead, but I assure you this rod will handle these fish with no problem.

Now keep in mind, I fish out of a boat the majority of time. This means when we hook a fish I can move the boat with the fish. When you are in a boat you can use the lighter rods. If you are a bank angler the majority of the time you can use the same rod. You just need to adjust the weight of your mainline. If you would use a 10lb mainline in a boat, use a 12 lb mainline for the bank. The rod will handle the fish. You just need a line that will help keep the fish in the hole or area you are fishing.

Reels
Next, select the reel to fit the rod. Again, there are many things that effect this decision, but a couple of the most important aspects to consider will be the drag system and the amount of line the reel will hold.

Quality reels also have labels describing the line weight and how many yards or meters of line can fit on the spool. IE. lb.(mm)–yds.(m) 6(0.25)-210(190) 8(0.28)-170(155)

So if you look at the example label, you will see you can get 170 yards of 8lb test line on this reel. When you choose a reel to match your fishing rod, it needs to balance with the rod and it needs to have the capacity to hold enough line.

Here are a few things to consider: Many of us will never have a fish pay out 140 yards of line. But we may get hung up on a rock, a tree, or a bush and break off 30 yards of line. You do this a couple of times in a trip and you only had 140 yards of line to begin with, you are now down to 80 yards of line.

As an example: For drift fishing for steelhead and salmon I use G-Loomis GL3 1141s 9’6” ultra light rod. I have matched spinning reels with instant anti reverse in a 2500 series size.

Reels that are considered 2500 series size reels may not all be listed as 2500 series. Reel sizes are categorized differently with every manufacturer.

Here is an example:

•   Diawa - 1000, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000 series reels
•   Shimano - 1000, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000 series reels
•   Okuma - 15, 20, 30, 40 series reels
•   Penn - 500, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000 depending on the model
•   Abu-Garcia – has 100, 300, 500, 600, 700, 800 series reels

Even when we use baitcasting rods for pulling plugs, we like to use lighter rods than most people use.

You want a rod that will allow a plug to swim or act in the manner it was designed, as well as handle the size of fish you are targeting.

As an example: For a baitcast setup we would choose an 8’6” fast action medium power rod (G-Loomis 1024c). We would match it with a baitcasting reel that has instant anti reverse in a 5500 series size.

Again, not all reel manufacturers use the same method of describing their reels, so look at several reels and make a choice based on: Manufacturer reputation, line capacity, design, and feel in the hand.

Here are some tips for Selecting a Reel
•   Select several reels that fit your criteria.
•   Does the reel fit in your hand comfortably? Is it too large? If the reel feels too big, select the next size down
•   Remember, you will fish more comfortably if the reel fits your hand.
•   Gear ratios - To explain it simply, the higher the ratio, the faster the retrieve of the bait without racing the handle on the reel and wrenching your wrist.
•   The most often used gear ratios are 5.3 and 6.0 to 1. This means the spool turns 5.3 times every time you turn the handle of the reel 360 degrees (one time).

Mainline
Matching your mainline to your rod and reel is equally important. As you know there is a wide variety fishing lines you can use. The brand, quality, and features may have a bearing on your choice. Most importantly you need to match your line to your rod and reel. Often anglers choose a line that is too heavy for the rod, reel, or terminal tackle. Line weight is important to how much line you will spool and how the line works with the rod & the terminal tackle.

Even though a rod may be labeled with a line weight of 6 – 10lbs., you can usually adjust this a little. As an example: For a spincast setup used for free drifting we use a rod that is labeled as follows: 9'6" 4–8 1/16 - 3/8 Slow Action Ultra-Light. Even though the line weight listed on this rod states 4-8 lb, we use 10lb mono. I know of some guides who use 12lb line on the same rods.

Choosing a mainline can also be a daunting task. Should you use fluorocarbon, braided line, or just plain monofilament? Everyone has an opinion on this and this can be a heavily debated subject I just will not get into. If you choose to use super braids, you will have a heavy breaking strength line, but with a smaller diameter. Try it and decide.

Braided line has many wonderful qualities and I use it for certain applications. But remember, braided line cannot be handled the same as monofilament. It does not break off like Monofilament does. You cannot wrap your hand around. It will cut you very badly! Respect it and learn how to use properly.

Professionally, I use 10lb Izorline (high vis gold) for my mainline on my spinning rods. I also use 17lb Izorline (green) for my baitcast, (plugging) rods when I fish the Skagit, Snohomish, Snoqualmie, Skykomish, and Cowlitz rivers. I use Power Pro braid for my baitcast (plugging) rods for sturgeon and fishing on the Columbia River.

There are many things to consider with mainline. Find something you are confident in and that is balanced well for your rod and reel.

Leaders
The weight of the leader you use is just as important as the mainline. I suggest using leaders that are at least 2 lbs lighter than the mainline. This allows for break-offs below the terminal tackle, and most importantly it prevents hinging and wrapping commonly associated with using mismatched leaders and mainlines.

However, depending on the area and species of fish you are targeting, you may use a heavier leader than the mainline. I also use Izorline (green) for my leaders. I do not like using the fluorocarbon for leaders because I think it is just too stiff.

I tie all of my own leaders and I suggest you do the same. Pre-tied leaders are available though if you just do not have the time. Three Rivers Marine in Woodinville, WA has a wide variety of pre-tied leaders available on leader rolls. They are hand tied by a professional, not some factory. There are other companies who offer pre-tied leaders with a corkie or cheater too.

For most applications we use 4 – 6 foot leaders. It really depends on water clarity. The lower the visibility, the shorter the leader you can use. Also, if you are fishing on the bank, you can fish leaders 2 – 5 feet in length. Again it depends on water clarity.

Look at your rod, reel, mainline and leaders. Are you using gear that is too heavy? Have you missed fish because you did not know they picked up your bait? This is your gear, so it is your choice.

In Part 2 we will cover the terminal tackle, including hooks, lures, and bait.

Columbia River Springer Fishing Limited Openings

Tue, 07 Apr 2009 16:43:00 -0700

Springer Season on the Columbia River is happening right now and we are catching Spring Kings NOW. We have only two days left for this fishery. April 17th & 18th are the last two days we have open.

Don't miss out! This normally costs 200.00 per person. But I have a one-time special at 150.00 per person with a minimum of 4 persons. The maximum limit is 5 persons. In association with our partner guide, we have two boats available for both the 17th & 18th. We can fish five per boat, no problem but it is more comfortable with four.

So if you have a large group of 8 - 10, call me now, to secure both boats for one of these dates! Don’t wait, secure one of these two days for your group.

Don't be fooled by the special low price. This is a rare deal. We are already down there on the 15th & 16th and the 17th & 18th opened up. The limit is 1 fish per day, per person and it must be fin-clipped in all the areas below the Bonneville Dam.

This is supposed to be the third largest return in the history of the Columbia River, with over 300,000 fish returning. If you have never experienced fishing for a Springer or tasted a Spring King you are missing out! They are hard fighting, chrome bright, full of fat and definitely the best eating salmon around!

We will be launching and fishing out of the Portland / Vancouver area, specifically the Portco boat launch at Marine Park. Your cost includes tax and all bait and tackle. We fish out of a 23 ½ foot Alumaweld Super Vee Pro and 250 HP Yamaha Jet. As you have seen on our website, we use only the best equipment available. G Loomis fishing Rods, Okuma fishing reels, Izorline fishing line and leader material, Vision fishing hooks. We use our extensive knowledge and a few secrets to put fish in the boat.

As always Ridge to River Outdoors and partner guides practice catch and release on the wild stock and put limits of fish in the boat for our clients.

Hotels abound in the Portland / Vancouver area. The Red Lion Inn in Vancouver is a good selection. The Red Lion Inn is located on the banks of the Columbia River for the Portland area Spring fishery. The Red Lion Inn in Vancouver that is located on the banks of the Columbia River right by the I-5 Bridge has a dock where we can pick you up in the morning. This location puts you right on the fishing area.

At the end of your fishing day we can drop you off at the dock and clean and bag your fish for you.